Jewelers’ love for Art Deco shapes shows no signs of waning. So how does the latest look steal the show? hexagon.
Hexagonal geometry has recently appeared in jewelry through patterns made from precious metals or gemstones cut into hexagonal shapes.
London-based fashion stylist Natalie Wansbrough-Jones, who has worked with Elle and Grazia magazines, says the hexagon is an unusual shape that lends itself to a “really artistic and architectural” design. The shape is particularly popular with jewelers who have “very creative brains,” she said.
She said the hexagonal jewelry style was interesting and “provided another layer of uniqueness to the jewelry being produced, which totally inspired me.”
This summer, this shape is the protagonist of Gucci’s high jewelry collection: its iconic horsebit (celebrating its 70th anniversary) is intertwined with geometric shapes (including hexagons), appearing on gold rings, necklaces and single rows. and double row bracelet. .
Hexagonal stones appear in Eugenie Niarchos’s brand Venyx, which often features angular, geometric jewelry designs. For example, a pair of Hex earrings ($8,660) showcase two emeralds totaling 6.18 carats, surrounded by pavé diamonds and topped with a gold star set with emerald beads. A gold necklace echoes this theme, using a 7.9-carat hexagonal emerald surrounded by a double-set diamond border and set on a gold chain ($20,350).
London jeweler Hirsh recently sold a Keystone tourmaline platinum ring set with a 3.84 carat aquamarine indigo tourmaline (price to be requested). To emphasize the hexagonal shape of the stone, its six sides are decorated with tiny triangular orange garnets.
The hexagon has been a cornerstone of the Chaumet Bee My Love collection for over a decade; a natural pairing considering that honeycombs are made up of a large number of hexagonal cells. In 2021, the brand expands its connections by creating its own proprietary hexagonal cut, the Taille Impératrice (Empress Cut in English).
“We thought: ‘Let’s go back to our roots, what is at the heart of what makes Chaumet a jeweler,'” said Jean-Marc Mansvelt, Chaumet’s chief executive. “That’s metals and gemstones, especially diamonds.” Taille Impératrice has 88 Facets, which create more light and reflection than other diamonds (for example, a round brilliant cut diamond has 57 facets).
The Taille Impératrice cut now appears throughout the Bee My Love collection, embellished with bold gold interlocking hexagon bracelets or top bee-themed pins and mismatched earrings.
This cut also appears in the brand’s fine jewelry pieces, including the Le Jardin de Chaumet collection launched last summer. The Magnolia in this series is set with side-by-side Taille Impératrice cut diamonds, ranging in weight from 1.05 carats to 3.15 carats. The diamond shapes are rectangular, square and marquise, all complemented by brushed gold ornaments.
Mr Mansvelt said Taille Impératrice exemplifies Chaumet’s ability to innovate while also delivering “amazing additional value to its customers”.
In addition to the hexagonal symmetry, some jewelers are attracted to its believed spiritual qualities.
Krishna Choudhary is a tenth generation jeweler and founder of contemporary Indian brand Santi. In Indian culture, the hexagon is a symbol of sacred geometry, often found in temples and used in spiritual practices, he wrote in an email.
“This shape symbolizes the union of feminine and masculine energy,” he wrote. Mr. Choudhary recently celebrated this shape in a ring featuring an antique hexagonal emerald surrounded by six hexagonal diamonds, all set on a platinum pavé diamond band (price to be requested) .
Sabine Roemer, a goldsmith who was born in Germany and now works in London, said she was attracted to the hexagon as a “symbol of unity and balance”. It appears in her new fine jewelry Bee You Disc Earrings (price upon request). She set 100 round brilliant-cut peridots in a network of interlocking green titanium openwork hexagons, and embellished the design with two emerald-cut citrines totaling 20 carats.
The stone is round, but “I like the architectural dialogue with the hexagon,” Ms. Romer said. “I like the contrast.”
For the citrine, she used a scrub setting (the stone is held in a metal collar rather than a row of prongs) to create a strong enclosed look. “The very square, structured corners play with the hexagons again,” she said. “But then I softened the whole thing with discs.”
British jeweler Graff also played with the architectural exterior. Its Laurence Graff Signature diamond pendant collection (starting at $6,600) features round brilliant-cut diamonds in a hexagonal setting, adding brilliance to the jewelry.
This year, London jeweler Lily Gabriella launched Hex, a collection focused on hexagons that reflect the designer’s decorative aesthetic. Examples include the hexagonal gemstone cabochon pendant (from $4,600) and the round brilliant-cut gemstone stud earrings in hexagonal settings painted in black enamel (from $15,740).
Ms. Gabriella, who studied fine arts at Brandeis University in Massachusetts, said the purpose of the rounded stones was to create optical illusions and play with volume and negative space. She added that she had always been attracted to architecture and sculpture, particularly the work of Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson. “The way his sculptures interact and play with light and shadow is very clever,” she said. “I’ve always been fascinated by the aesthetic of sculpture, trying to carve out light and shadow and play with that space.”
Elsewhere, her hoop earrings (starting at $4,600) pair hexagonal shapes with round stones, while a gold bracelet ($10,280) with a row of hexagonal cutouts is accented with black enamel.
London fashion stylist Ms. Vance Blue-Jones described the piece as “very beautiful, symmetrical and pleasing” but noted that a male colleague who saw the bracelet compared it to a male animal’s tail. – This just emphasizes the width of the hexagon. It’s okay to appeal.